My annual wine appraisal is due. Why? you ask; well, because I can. So if you can stay awake I will try briefly to make head or tail of the wine trends of the year as I see them and describe what is happening in general terms, plus some tips on what to buy; though as ever wine like any other beverage or food is subjective - very few people will come to the exact same conclusion of a wine's merits or otherwise.
In brief, the rise and rise of sparkling
wine especially Prosecco and Cava has pushed Champagne down from its No. 1
position in this country. Rosé is still on the rise and in France more rosé is
now consumed than white wine.
Spain is the largest exporter of wine, mainly due to the bulk wines from the prodigious plains of La Mancha. France
still easily makes more money from wine exports than anyone else owing to their
premium wine market, and the Italians make more wine than anyone else. And
Sauvignon Blanc is the most popular grape variety, red or white, in the UK.
Anyone can see when trawling the supermarket
shelves is that there is a push upwards in the price of wine on offer. In
fairness, for years the price has been held down as the great British public
refused to pay any more than £5 a bottle, but all good things come to an end
and whilst the £5 bottle still exists the dearer bottles are now in the
ascendant.
The pushing through that barrier has seen some outlets overdo the
quality improvement bit and I have in mind Tesco who have carried out a badly needed revamp of their wine list but have introduced ever more own label wines under the
Finest label. As with all the other supermarkets it can’t be and isn’t all the
Finest or anything else but you pay more for it; sadly this is a trend that is
going to grow as it constrains the amount of lines they stock to ones they have
control over re price. Remember, important looking labels and expensive looking
bottles have no bearing on what is within.
What we are seeing Europe wide is a general
reshaping of the old wine producing countries as they push back against the New
World and reshape, as they must, for the New World is not standing still either. The
endless planting of the major grape varieties is slowing as indigenous grapes
are being rediscovered and treated with respect. Europe of course has more of
these than anywhere else and is experimenting with them, as well as using different grape varieties to suit the areas that are seeing temperature
rises. An obvious candidate in red wines is the re
emergence of Grenache, the southern Rhone staple that is more tolerant of high
temperatures than Cabernet Sauvignon, and in Spain old Grenache vineyards are now being renovated, after
suffering years of neglect and being ripped up.
Probably more than any other European country, Spain is going through or starting to institute some big changes. Among white wines, Albarino and Godello are proving Spain can produce quality white wines after years of oxidised white Riojas. The only
problem with these excellent wines is the current fairly high price compared
with the competition. There are also some other varieties on the rise - Verdejo,
Macabeo, and others are being seen over here, welcome additions to the whites
category; reds such as Monastrell, Carinena and Mencia are already
available.
In reds Rioja, as I found on my recent trip, is changing: the old guard is being challenged. There is a push for single
vineyard and area status, something everywhere else has but not Rioja. A Gran
Reserva achieves its status by spending two years in wood and three in bottle, but it has been pretty obvious for years that the price of some Grand Reservas
on sale could never be achieved without poor quality and cheap fruit being
used, so the 2 and 3 year ruling has no guarantee of quality and this they are
trying to change by trying to introduce a cru class system, i.e. wineries
classified by quality.
Other areas of Spain are also on the rise
with good and great reds coming from Ribera del Douro, Priorat, Toro and others; even La Mancha has plans to reduce the bulk wine industry and start on quality.
Spain's neighbor Portugal has been producing
better and better wines for some time now and the Port grape Touriga Nacional
is proving to be as good as any in producing top class reds and they are
becoming ever more available. The whites as in Spain were pretty awful but the
recent examples of Vinho Verde are miles away from that era and well worth
buying.
Italy like Spain has been going through a
change period over a longer time. Their indigenous white grapes are commonly
seen now: Falanghina, Pecorino , Greco de Tuffi, Vermentinos and more alongside
the Gavis, Verdicchios, Pinot Grigio ( the ones from the Trentino area are the
best) and Soaves and at last the quality is rising with all of them - a couple
of Soaves I have drunk this year reminded me of how good they can be.
In Italian reds there is not so much new, rather a
cementing of fairly new (to us) grape varieties such as Aglianico, the southern
reds providing the best value with Nero d’Avola and Negroamaro and Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) and much more choice of the likes of Montepulchiano d’Abruzzo and
Chianti and the Tuscan region. The more expensive northern enclaves of Barolo
and Barbaresco produce Italy's flagship wines but choosing is difficult: price
can be stratospheric but not not necessarily the content.
In France the regions outside Bordeaux and
Burgundy are getting the exposure they deserve with the Rhone valley producing
some wines in their lesser appelations that have come on leaps and bounds along
with availability. Everyone knows Chateauneuf du Pape and Cotes du Rhone, but
the likes of St Joseph , Cornas, Lirac, Ventoux and especially Gigondas have
not exactly been plentiful; but that is changing. The Rhone at one time was the
most sought after of France’s wines and the top Hermitage, Cote Rotie wines can
hold their own with anything from Bordeaux or Burgundy, but they will never
really compete as the area where they are grown is minute compared with the latter. The
Languedoc and satellite areas (if I can call them that) like Costieres de Nimes,
Corbieres and the rise in the quality of the those using the Carignan Cinsault
and Mouvedre grapes make this a happy hunting ground for new producers who are
using the good material that in many cases has always been there.
The Loire is another very large area on the
up, helped by temperature rises in recent years. This area that would have good years
infrequently is enjoying better times: even the reds that can be thin and
tasteless in bad years are offering something different to be tried. Red Chinon, for example, is being made to a standard way above the norm and Vouvray is very
good most years, plus all the whites along this great river from the coast in
starting with Muscadet have benefited from a renaissance in wine making and
better weather.
I
will lump the Alsace in with its German vineyards across the Rhine in saying
they are still simply not appreciated for what they are and the great grape
Riesling they use. For me it has always been the Pinot Gris that I have sought
out from the Alsace, preferring the German interpretation of the Riesling grape, and this is another area that now seems rarely to have a bad vintage. The Riesling grape provides value for money in the hands of so many great
producers - for many the Riesling is the greatest white grape. It continues to provide me with white wine on a par with and often better than white Burgundy and at a
price I can afford. It was not always like that: as with the Rhone pre war, this
area provided the most expensive and prestigious white wines. If you like
Riesling there are now styles to suit all, and the drier styles are now superb: look out for anything with GG on the label and even the Kabinett class - they are in
styles no longer in the sweet category and are amazing value.
The weather has benefited most northern
wine areas and another to benefit is German red wines. Red German wines you ask? Well, yes: Spätburgunder (aka Pinot Noir) has been grown there with limited
success for years but recently it has “come good” and there really are Spätburgunders to rival Burgundy and again becoming available.
Virtually no wine growing European country
is not represented on the wine merchant's shelves now. Eastern Europe which has
some very old vineyards has been slow out of the blocks but is starting to make
a mark at this moment in time, mainly with their whites, and Greece is now full
on producing some great wines from grape varieties unique to them - worth seeking
out for something different and worthwhile.
As I said earlier the New World is not
standing still either. Australia which started the revolution in new world
wines has had to rethink not only what it grows but how they make
the wine. Shiraz is still their best red but became very alcoholic and heavy to
the extent that people started to turn to lighter, fresher styles and this is
now being reflected in the vineyards, Chardonnay using cooler climate sites like
the Adelaide Hills; the Margaret
River Cabernet Sauvignons have moved up the quality ladder and Pinot Noir is
being successfully farmed. New grape varieties are being planted in a
country that has been quite conservative in that area.
NZ stays much the same, just starting to
plant other varieties, but probably feels that their success with Sauvignon Blanc and
Pinot Noir (despite my own reservations on the cheaper versions) calls for any
change to be carefully thought through.
In the vineyards of the Cape in South Africa there
really has been change: no longer endless Chenin Blancs at knockdown prices. A move upmarket has resulted in some cracking wines of both colours coming from
there. The problem for the SA wine industry is not whether they can produce great
wine but the political situation, which is worsening for farmers of all types: how
long before the wineries get similar treatment?
With Christmas approaching many will be
reaching for the port and sherry. Both are artificially low in price against
what is in the bottle. Bargains abound, bulk sherry producers are on the floor
at the moment but the better sherries have never been more
plentiful in recent times. There are some amazing sherries out there if you like the stuff: spend
a bit more on a bottle, you will not regret it. The same with Port: it is amazing to be able to
buy a vintage Port at today's prices; such great wine at such
comparatively low prices.
Cool climate vines and "terroir" are the buzz
words across the wine world at the moment and nowhere is pushing the boundaries
more in this respect than Argentina. Having conquered the USA with their full-on Malbecs, experimentation at altitude has resulted in many high altitude
vineyards being planted, the highest commercial vineyard being at 3,111 metres. The
long season and plentiful sunshine in a cool climate situation brings a whole
new dimension to the wines grown like this. Again as in Chile there is
experimentation with different grape varieties. In Chile they are even planting
in the Atacama desert, a cool climate desert; all of this opens up the use of
other areas of the world to the planting of vines.
The Americas are fast opening up with
Uruguay and even Peru producing wine and Brazil has an enormous sparkling wine
industry, so it will not be long before we see Brazilian “Champagne” alongside the Prosecco and Cava.
The USA drinks most of its own wine and
the cost of wines means they are not easy to source in the UK but exchange
rates move in both directions and who knows when they will become easier to
obtain.
Elsewhere in the world the big news is
China who along with India will be almost certainly the new frontier of wine in
the future. An awful lot of money is being pumped into finding the best sites
for vines and the top consultants are being employed. To give an idea of the
importance of this country and wine futures the DBR (Domaines Barons de
Rothschild, the parent company of Chateau Lafite who have wine holdings worldwide) purchased 400 hectares in China in 2008 and the first wines will be on sale next year.
Bulk wines from the likes of the two
powerhouses of this wine, Spain and Italy, plus France, Chile and Australia, account
for an ever growing percentage of supermarket wines. Bulk wine by definition is
any wine shipped in containers (and not in bottles or smaller packaging and
bottled in the country of consumption.) Most people would never realise that the
bottle they hold is from bulk shipped wine, only a small label “bottled in the
UK” gives it away. The cost savings on freight and packaging, bottles, is
enormous and keeps the wine price down so it is not all bad. Bulk wines currently
account for something like 62% of all wines sold in the UK with 85% of all
Australian wines being shipped in bulk.
In other news, cork is rising back to the top as a
closure, as the cork producers fight back against the
screwtop with cork closures that have managed to eliminate the spoilage
compounds, above all trichloroanisole TCA. People prefer the cork as it gives a
perceived indication of quality, so cork will retain the lion's share of the
closure market; hat in itself is enormous -18 billion bottles of wine are
produced annually and over 11 billion use cork as a closure, as against 4.5 billion using screw caps and the rest plastics. A whole science is continually going into
making closures of all types better for the wine they enclose.
And finally it has become very apparent in
recent years that there has been an ever increasing number of women involved in
wine; from wine makers at all levels and world wide to CEOs and managers, women
are now an important part of the wine industry, such as Susana Balbo in Argentina; Xandra Falco who runs the Marques de Grinon estate in Spain; also in Spain
Elena Adell, chief winemaker at the giant Campo Viejo winery; again in Spain
Maria Vargas chief winemaker of Marques de Murrietta; and many others in all the wine producing countries.